Thursday, 29 May 2008
Wednesday, 28 May 2008
Before I tell you the answer, more about the term 'ned'. In the UK, each region seems to have it's own terminology for it's 'colourfull local youth'. In some areas they are 'Scallies', 'asbo's' seems to have caught on too. But in Scotland they are known as NEDs, short for 'Non-Educated Delinquents'.
Dumbarton Rock has it's fair share of youngsters who use the venue to refine their graffiti-ing and bottle smashing skills as well as getting in some early practice at Scotland's national sport - binge drinking. Occasionally they will venture onto the rock. A tide mark of graffitti marks the high point at which the generations have reached.
On Friday three of them ventured to the top of one of the boulders. Two got down. The third was not so brave, and after an hour of being marooned he telephoned for rescue.
6 Fire Fighters
The Coast Guard and an RAF helicopter
There was a lot of discussion between the assembled professionals, until finally Sonnie Trotter, Cory Richards and Peter Roy scrambled up, put a harness on the lad and coaxed him down.
And finally, working hard:
Film making is hard work. Straight off the plane from Canada where she was filming a travel doc for BBC, Lynwen Griffiths gets a couple of hours sleep before our filming starts at Dumbarton.
Sunday, 25 May 2008
Kev Sheilds on The Benny Hill Show at The Quadrocks
The film follows Kev climbing in Scotland and Northern Ireland and examines his motivations for hard trad climbing.
Current TV can be found here: SKY 193, Virgin 155
Saturday, 24 May 2008
One of the best things about having made climbing films for some years now is that we get to work with people again and again in different places around the world. I was looking forward to the current shoot with Sonnie Trotter and Cory Richards because because working with them is just plain simple good fun.
Truth is that I wasn’t really expecting Sonnie to be back in
Cory Richards’ preparation was even worse. ‘8 months on the couch’, and now he is here to climb a route way harder than anything he has ever climbed before (on bolts, or trad). Cory is a photographer, and trips are always photography first and climbing second. But this time is different, and so for both guys the visit to Dumbarton is really about refinding their climbing mojo and regaining fitness. I think I’m actually a bit jealous. This year has all been filming first, and climbing last. To take three weeks off to focus on a superb route; now that would just be heaven.
It is hard for high profile climbers to go about their task anonymously. The internet has been buzzing with reports of the guys’ progress. Each day at the crag a friendly and enthusiastic crowd gathers. Sonnie has also been giving his perspective on his climbing and all things Scottish on his blog.
The weather has been exceptional this year. Every day has been dry. Normally we will get a good week in May, but not a whole month. But the truth is that climbing conditions have been quite poor. It has been hot and everyday the wind has been from the east, meaning that the headwall has been sheltered by the castle. Then at last, late on Thursday really good conditions did finally arrive. Unfortunately Sonnie had already blown it. And he was mad. Really mad. And yes, quite rightly so. He had warmed up on the route while it was still hot and lost too much skin.
Now conditions were perfect. Up on the headwall I filmed as he powered his way higher, looking composed and comfortable. Then as he traversed towards me into the crux I saw that he had his finger tips taped up. The fall was almost inevitable. But Sonnie’s rationale was good. A small chance of success, but more likely he will take that big fall. Becoming comfortable with the fall is essential for success. And so, to emphasis the point, he pulled up, and climbed through once more, falling from even higher.
The progress of Cory on Requiem is pretty inspiring. Each day achieves a piece of progress, a sequence refined, a longer link, a gain in stamina.
So now there are just a few days left. I have no doubt that Sonnie can climb the route. Whether he will, in the time he has left, is far from certain. But that is good. If outcomes were certain, then they just wouldn’t be interesting. The climbing ability is there. Success is down to tactics, timing, strategy, conditions and of course luck.
Interestingly Sonnie has found two additional lines up the Rhapsody headwall. Some may think this is a big deal, a more direct finish rather than the left then right of Rhapsody. But the Rhapsody sequence is superb and Sonnie is following Dave’s sequence hold for hold. So maybe the headwall will also get a new direct finish as well. We shall see. The forecast remains good. Hopefully skin will last out the week.
Hot Aches are working with Sonnie Trotter on a number of routes for what will be one of 4 new films destined for DVD release this autumn.